BODIL – et spisested Copenhagen
In the quiet backstreets of the ever-growing suburb of Vesterbro in the south-west of Copenhagen a warm, hygge beacon of light shines on the corner of Bodilsgade and Sønder Boulevard. Bodil – et spisested has quickly built up its reputation as a trailblazer of modern Danish cuisine, in a saturated market that gave birth to the likes of noma and and Formel B.
The fresh, dynamic and changing menu takes decision making out of the equation, serving a four course set menu with the option for a fifth for just 295kr or 325kr respectively. The chefs therefore have the chance to showcase their very best private, one-on-one connection built between diner – with a small seating area for around thirty diners – and chef illustrates a homely and caring dining experience.
Carefully spaced out over the evening, the courses are presented by the chefs themselves in a descriptive and proud manor. BODIL is not to be missed and is likely to become one of Copenhagen’s leading restaurant in the years to come.
The first course; dinner snacks – pan-fried cashews, pickled quail eggs, jamon rolls and salumi with a serve of home made bread with browned butter.
This light start was followed by grilled herring served with charred grapefruit, black ink squid and spinach paste. The balance of flavours could not be better for this dish. The saltiness of the fish was complemented by the harsh bitterness of the grapefruit, both of which were subdued by the process of grilling. The simple texture of the paste juxtaposed by the crunch of the vegetable greens along with a burst of sweet-saltiness from the squid.
Next up was the perfect mystery dish. Had the chef not explained the complex components on arrival, I would have not detected every ingredient. Beef tartar served with shaved egg yolk, mushrooms, hazelnut, deep fried onion and alfalfa greens. The mushroom – sweet and textured and crisp, crunchy onions were clear and deliciously matched for each other. The sprinklings of beef tartar so fine and shaved egg yolk through the dominant flavours of mushroom and onion was a true surprise. Reversing the hero of the dish, the textures of this combination was borderline comfort food.
The main dish was a real ah-ha moment. Soft pork breast, pumpkin, carrot, cranberries, celery and new potatoes with a side dish of potatoes in vinaigrette, pumpkin purée, pickled celery, shallots and maltjord. The serving was quite large. The thick lightness of the celery mousse, against the wet, grated carrot and sticky, moist pork produced a refined balance of texture and flavour – bringing all elements of the dish together with clarity and warmth. The pumpkin purée side dish was a welcome burst of freshness alongside the roast.
For the additional fifth course, a somewhat unusual dish that shows the possibility of curated experimentation. Blue cheese with bacon marmalade and apples. The cheese was quite subdued for an aged blue and combined with the dominance of the bacon marmalade and the sweetness of the apples, it was almost lost entirely expect for the texture. A generous portion too, the cheese stand alone was lovely and creamy.
Finally, to finish off a dehydrated chocolate mousse with shun and blueberry was again a surprising flavour. Seldom savoury, this sweet was rich in bitter cocoa and salty chocolate rather than the usual sugar hit at the end of the meal. A pleasant paring to the blue cheese beforehand.